Servicing Glastonbury and Surrounding Towns


On this page we have provided you with a "Monthly Garden Chore" list to help you take care of your landscapes and gardens. These lists will help you get started.  We encourage you to call or email us with questions for more specific instructions to help you with your gardens.


We encourage the use of healthy landscape and garden practices and want to be helpful, so if any of these chores seem overwhelming, our staff is available to assist or customize a maintenance plan for you.

Helpful Monthly Garden Tips




  • Clean and sharpen your garden tools

  • Remove dead, damaged or broken limbs and branches from trees and shrubs

  • Clear turf and weeds from around trees and shrubs

  • Start shopping for vegetable seeds and planning your vegetable garden

  • Make notes about changes you would like to make to your landscape





  • If the temperatures are warm and the soil is soggy stay off your lawns and gardens

  • Force branches from early blooming shrubs like: pussy willows, forsythia, apple and cherry

  • Continue to monitor trees and shrubs for dead, damaged and diseased wood.  

  • Remove water sprouts and suckers

  • Start leeks and onions for your vegetable garden




  • Start cleaning beds along the most traveled walkways near your house

  • Clean out water gardens

  • Pot up pansies and violas to add color

  • Top dress cleaned beds with organic fertilizer and aged compost

  • Feed spring bulbs and garlic

  • Prune roses as buds begin to push and feed

  • Plant bare-root species like raspberries, strawberries, fruit trees, asparagus and roses



  • Wait to prune spring flowering shrubs until after bloom

  • Take advantage of cool moist weather to divide and move perennials

  • Cannas can go in the ground after danger of frost passes

  • Edge beds

  • Apply mulch after the soil has thoroughly warmed

  • Prune paniculata and Annabelle hydrangeas


  • Make a pass through your garden each week with a hoe or by hand to remove weeds

  • Gardens need 1 inch of water/week check your rain gauge and supplement if needed

  • Summer pots need extra attention –keep watered and feed regularly

  • Some perennials need a good “hair-cut” now like groundcover geraniums

  • Prune spring flowering shrubs and rhododendrons now



  • Remove fallen leaves and other debris from your gardens

  • Cut back faded ornamental grasses and the leaves of your earliest  blooming perennials

  • Rake snow mold off lawns after a stretch of sunny, dry days

  • Water houseplants more frequently and give leggy indoor plants a haircut

  • Start cannas and tuberous begonias

  • Plant peas and spinach

  • Empty and clean bird nest boxes






  • Raise the deck of your mower

  • Continue with weekly garden cleaning

  • Continue to keep an eye on the rainfall and supplement if needed

  • Hand-pick and drown Japanese Beetles and other garden pests

  • Stop feeding woody plants now

  • Continue to cut back perennials that have finished blooming and look scraggly

  • Cut back daffodil foliage now



  • Remove dead, yellowed or “chewed” foliage

  • Cut back “floppy” plants like daylilies that have finished blooming

  • Mid-August – September is prime lawn repair time

  • Order spring bulbs for planting

  • Continue to water

  • Send in soil samples for testing

  • Dig and divide daylilies

  • Repot houseplants now if they need it

  • Divide or add perennials now

  • Continue with lawn renovation, maintenance this month

  • Don’t dead-head any perennials, biennials or annuals you want to self-sow

  • Dig and divide daylilies or other perennials as they complete bloom

  • Peonies can be divided and transplanted now

  • Keep watering trees and shrubs deeply before they enter dormancy

  • Evergreens may start to show browning or yellowing this month as old needles are shed





  • Time to start “official” Fall Cleanup Chores!

  • Leave ornamental, wildlife friendly plants standing

  • Remove sickly things first and destroy debris (do not compost) to minimize problems next year

  • Stabilize woody plants – continue to remove broken or dead branches

  • Gather leaves and start a “leaves only” compost pile

  • Lawn care: do “heavy raking” now and over-seed if there is still time

  • Top-dress lawns with ½ - ¾” of compost

  • Protect or store vulnerable pots

  • Continue to weed


  • Continue to mow your lawn if it’s still growing

  • Lower the mowing deck to make your last mow is a short one

  • Plant bulbs

  • Continue to remove leaves and do not allow leaves to accumulate in your garden beds

  • Be extra vigilant about keeping the area around your ornamental trees and shrubs free of weeds, turf, fruit, nuts and other debris to discourage rodents

  • Remove Viburnum Beetle egg cases on the undersides of the youngest twigs of your viburnum bushes by pruning them off and destroying them


  • Take a quick last look around your house and yard for anything you taken care of yet

  • Protect or store pots that could be damaged over the winter

  • Install flexible yellow or orange poles to let the plows know where your lawn and driveway borders are

  • Continue to look for and remove dead or damaged branches and limbs

  • Make sure bird feeders are securely anchored in the soil and place 2’ or 30’ away from windows to minimize bird strikes

  • Put a heater in the bird bath so birds have water all winter




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                     Using These 5 Simple Steps

1: Have A Reason For Pruning.

There are many good reasons to prune a plant.

To remove dead or damaged wood

To rejuvenate an old or overgrown shrub

To keep a shrub smaller that wants to grow larger

To give a shrub a specific shape

To increase blooms on certain plants


Remember, if you are pleased with the size and performance of your plants then don't prune them. Before you do prune ask yourself: Why do I want to prune this shrub? What is my end goal?

If you can't answer these two questions then put away your pruning tools.

2: The Best Time To Prune...

plants that flower on new wood is just as the new growth begins emerging on the stems.

This point in the growing season lets you clearly identify any winter damage that should be removed as well as where the healthiest new growth is commming from.

3: Know If Your Plant Flowers On Old or New Wood.

Some plants flower on new wood- basically, they create flower buds for that season after the new growth begins. Other plants flower on old wood- again basically they create flower buds for the next season after they finish blooming that season.

Plants that flower on new wood can be pruned in late winter (if you can get to them) or early spring; plants that flower on old wood can only be pruned after they flower. Pruning them any other time will remove the buds, ending in little to no blooms for the next season.

4: You Can Safely Remove Up To One Third Of The Plant In Any Pruning Session.

Though there are some exceptions to this, such as major rejuvenation pruning, cutting the shrub back by one third in total height ensures the best results and quickest recovery.

Use one-third as your general rule of thumb when deciding how much to prune overall.

5: Make Your Pruning Cuts As Small As Possible When Pruning Shrubs.

Normally, gardeners have been told to make slanted cuts, however, slanted cuts have a larger surface area than a straight cut. The plant will heal up smaller cuts faster and take less energy than the slanted cut.


Plants don't die from not being pruned- but plenty have been killed or disfigured from poor pruning practices.



Remember we are always here to help you with any pruning questions.

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